The Watch List™

The Watch List™

What we watch:

UV filters • persistence chemicals • reef-risk claims • endocrine activity signals • formulation additives


The Watch List™ explores ingredients, claims and formulation topics commonly discussed in sunscreen conversations. Inclusion does not automatically indicate risk, and context, concentration, formulation and regulation all matter.


For the ingredients you do want in your sunscreen
The Ingredient List™


Chemical Filters

Organic / chemical UV filters currently included within The Watch List™

Raw Materials

Raw materials are the starting ingredients used to make many sunscreen ingredients. They go through a series of chemical reactions before becoming the UV filters listed on a sunscreen label.

Petroleum-Derived 

Petroleum-Based Raw Materials
What they are

Petroleum-based raw materials come from crude oil or natural gas. After refining, they become simple chemical ingredients that can be used to make thousands of everyday products.

How they're used

Chemists combine these raw materials with other ingredients, including acids and other chemical building blocks, to create new substances with specific properties. Some of these become chemical UV filters used in sunscreen.

Why this matters

Chemical UV filters don't come straight from nature. They are manufactured in laboratories through a series of controlled chemical reactions using different raw materials. The exact process varies depending on the ingredient and the manufacturer.

Where they fit

Think of sunscreen like baking a cake:

  1. Raw Materials → the starting ingredients.
  2. Chemical UV Filters → one finished ingredient made from those raw materials.
  3. Other Sunscreen Ingredients → everything else added to help the product spread, stay on the skin and remain stable.
  4. Finished Sunscreen Product → the bottle you buy.


Hybrid UV Filter Systems

Category:

Active filters, often Chemical, sometimes with Zinc Oxide 
Combination of mineral + organic UV filters in one formula.

What it is

Common in beauty and family brands, not always transparent in labeling - 'reef safe' claims are not proven or regulated.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

  • Multiple UV filters used together can appear in “mineral” or “reef-safe” products
  • Increases formulation complexity and exposure pathways
  • Includes filters under global review (e.g. oxybenzone, homosalate)
  • Newly approved and under tested chemicals such as bemotrizinol



    Watch for these ingredients:

  • oxybenzone • homosalate • octocrylene • avobenzone • bemotrizinol • octisalate



Chemical Filters

  • Oxybenzone
  • Octinoxate
  • Octocrylene
  • Homosalate
  • Avobenzone
  • Bemotrizinol
  • Octisalate
  • PBSA (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid / Ensulizole)
  • 4-MBC (4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor / Enzacamene)
  • Padimate O

Oxybenzone

What it is

A chemical UV filter used to absorb UV rays.

Why it’s on The Watch List


Linked to coral bleaching and endocrine disruption concerns. Widely restricted in reef-sensitive regions.

SunSafe® Tags
Reef, Endocrine, UV Filter Source

Octinoxate

What it is

A chemical UV filter that protects against UVB rays.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Associated with coral reef damage and potential hormone disruption.

SunSafe® Tags
Reef, Endocrine, UV Filter, Source

Octocrylene

What it is

A UV filter used to stabilise other sunscreen ingredients.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Octocrylene can degrade into benzophenone, a compound linked to hormone disruption concerns. The older the product, the higher the potential benzophenone content.
It persists in the environment and may be ingested by marine life, contributing to long-term ecosystem impacts and pollution.

SunSafe® Tags
Persistence, Endocrine, UV Filter, Source

Homosalate

What it is

A chemical UV filter used in many SPF formulations.

Why it’s on The Watch List

  • Detected as a systemic UV filter (absorbed into the body in studies)
  • Shows endocrine activity signals in laboratory research, prompting ongoing scientific review
  • Often used at higher concentrations to achieve SPF targets, increasing total exposure potential
  • Included in current regulatory reassessment discussions in multiple regions
  • Frequently appears in daily-use sunscreen products, increasing repeated exposure relevance


SunSafe® Tags

Endocrine, UV Filter, endocrine disrupter, chemical sunscreen, hybrid sunscreen, homosalate, Source

Avobenzone

What it is

A UVA-filtering chemical sunscreen ingredient.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Photo-unstable on its own and often requires stabilisers, increasing formulation complexity and environmental load.


SunSafe® Tags
UV Filter, Persistence Source

 

Bemotrizinol

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine / BEMT / Tinosorb S

What it is

Bemotrizinol is a highly photostable, broad-spectrum UV filter now permitted by the US FDA at concentrations up to 6%.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

The FDA’s 2026 environmental review found that permitting this use was not expected to have a significant environmental impact. We’re continuing to watch the independent, long-term and coral-specific environmental evidence as it develops—not labelling harm where it has not been established.


SunSafe® Tags

UV Filter, Environmental Review, Formulation Complexity, Emerging Filter, Source, Source, Source

Octisalate

What it is

A UVB-absorbing chemical sunscreen filter often used to boost SPF performance and improve water resistance.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

Frequently used alongside multiple UV filters in hybrid and chemical systems. Included due to cumulative formulation load, repeated exposure considerations and broader transparency discussions around multi-filter sunscreen systems.


SunSafe® Tags
UV Filter, Hybrid Sunscreen, Formulation Complexity, Source


PBSA

What it is

A water-soluble UVB filter commonly used in lighter daily SPF formulations.

Why it’s on The Watch List

PBSA has been detected in surface waters, and laboratory evidence indicates a low rate of biodegradation. We’re watching its environmental fate, transformation products and chronic aquatic exposure. This is an evidence-gap position—not a claim of established ecosystem harm.


SunSafe® Tags
UV Filter, Water Soluble, Environmental Review, Source, Source



4-MBC

What it is

A UVB sunscreen filter historically used in some international formulations.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Included due to international regulatory discussions and endocrine activity research signals.


SunSafe® Tags
Endocrine, Regulatory Review, UV Filter, Source



Padimate O

What it is

A UVB chemical sunscreen ingredient related to PABA-derived chemistry.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Included due to historical safety discussions and reduced modern use compared with newer filters.


SunSafe® Tags
UV Filter, Legacy Filter, Ingredient Watch, Source



Sunscreen Formulation

Film formers, preservatives, silicones, fragrances, emulsifiers and other ingredients combined with UV filters to create finished sunscreen products.

Finished Sunscreen Product

The complete consumer product after formulation, manufacturing, packaging and distribution.



Human Risks

  • Benzophenone-1 (and related compounds)
  • Retinyl Palmitate


Benzophenone-1 (and related compounds)

What it is

Benzophenone-1 is a UV stabiliser and major metabolite and transformation product of oxybenzone.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Experimental and review evidence indicates estrogenic activity, and BP-1 has been documented in environmental matrices. We’re watching the endocrine evidence, environmental occurrence and incomplete fate data as they develop.


SunSafe® Tags
#Endocrine, #Persistence, Source, Source, Source


Retinyl Palmitate 

What is it?

Retinyl Palmitate is a vitamin A derivative—not a UV filter.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

In a National Toxicology Program study, creams containing Retinyl Palmitate increased the onset and multiplicity of skin lesions and squamous neoplasms in UV-exposed hairless mice compared with control cream. This animal study does not establish equivalent human risk.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

However, because Retinyl Palmitate adds no UV-filtering benefit, The Sunscreen List™ treats the uncertainty as avoidable in sunscreen.

SunSafe® tags
Human Risk, UV Reactivity, Non-SPF Ingredient,
Source 






Environmental Risks

  • VP/Eicosene Copolymer
  • Acrylates Copolymer
  • Silica Dimethyl Silylate
  • PFAS (Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances)


VP/Eicosene Copolymer

What it is

VP/Eicosene Copolymer is a synthetic film former used to improve water resistance and product performance.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Ingredient-specific environmental evidence remains limited, so claims that it does not readily biodegrade or that it causes microplastic-type pollution are not established. It remains on The Watch List™ as an environmental data gap while evidence and synthetic-polymer definitions continue to develop.


SunSafe® Tags
Persistence chemical, Source, Source


Acrylates Copolymer

What it is

Acrylates Copolymer describes a broad family of synthetic polymers used for film-forming and texture.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Some acrylic polymers biodegrade slowly, but the available review found generally no-to-low aquatic toxicity and reached a preliminary conclusion of low environmental concern. Important exposure and ecotoxicity data gaps remain. Whether a polymer meets a microplastic definition depends on its physical form and use—not its name alone.


SunSafe® Tags
Persistence chemical, Source, Source


Silica Dimethyl Silylate

What it is

Silica Dimethyl Silylate is a surface-modified amorphous silica used for texture, viscosity and a matte finish.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Available evidence does not support treating it as established environmental pollution. The evidence-based watch point is potential respiratory exposure where particles may be inhaled, particularly in powders or sprays. Risk depends on particle size and final-product delivery.


SunSafe® Tags
#Persistence, beauty silicone, glide, Source, Source


PFAS (Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances)

What it is

PFAS are a large class of synthetic chemicals. Certain PFAS are intentionally used in cosmetics, while others may be present as impurities or breakdown products.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Many break down very slowly and can accumulate in people, animals and the environment. Exposure to certain PFAS has been associated with increased cholesterol, reduced fertility, developmental effects, hormone interference and an increased risk of some cancers. Some PFAS can cross the placenta and enter umbilical cord blood. Evidence and toxicity vary by compound.

SunSafe® tags

PFAs, hormone disruption, infertility, Source, Source, Source, Source, Source


More Reports:

The Ingredient List™  | Case Studies

   



Keep Reading:


Environmental presence + persistence

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9652235/

Toxicological + formulation effects (marine systems)

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0269749122014269

Human exposure + biological interaction

https://www.mdpi.com/2305-6304/13/2/110

Regulatory + absorption studies context

https://www.tga.gov.au/news/media-releases

PFAs


Retinyl Palmitate

• National Toxicology Program — Photocarcinogenesis Study of Retinyl Palmitate

• FDA correspondence regarding sunscreen vitamin A studies

What we watch:

UV filters • persistence chemicals • reef-risk claims • endocrine activity signals • formulation additives


The Watch List™ explores ingredients, claims and formulation topics commonly discussed in sunscreen conversations. Inclusion does not automatically indicate risk, and context, concentration, formulation and regulation all matter.


For the ingredients you do want in your sunscreen
The Ingredient List™


Chemical Filters

Organic / chemical UV filters currently included within The Watch List™

Chemical Filters 

Human Risks 

Environmental Risks 


Hybrid UV Filter Systems

Category:

Active filters, often Chemical, sometimes with Zinc Oxide 
Combination of mineral + organic UV filters in one formula.

What it is

Common in beauty and family brands, not always transparent in labeling - 'reef safe' claims are not proven or regulated.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

  • Multiple UV filters used together can appear in “mineral” or “reef-safe” products
  • Increases formulation complexity and exposure pathways
  • Includes filters under global review (e.g. oxybenzone, homosalate)
  • Newly approved and under tested chemicals such as bemotrizinol



    Watch for these ingredients:

  • oxybenzone • homosalate • octocrylene • avobenzone • bemotrizinol • octisalate



Chemical Filters

  • Oxybenzone
  • Octinoxate
  • Octocrylene
  • Homosalate
  • Avobenzone
  • Bemotrizinol
  • Octisalate
  • PBSA (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid / Ensulizole)
  • 4-MBC (4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor / Enzacamene)
  • Padimate O

Oxybenzone

What it is

A chemical UV filter used to absorb UV rays.

Why it’s on The Watch List


Linked to coral bleaching and endocrine disruption concerns. Widely restricted in reef-sensitive regions.

SunSafe® Tags
Reef, Endocrine, UV Filter Source

Octinoxate

What it is

A chemical UV filter that protects against UVB rays.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Associated with coral reef damage and potential hormone disruption.

SunSafe® Tags
Reef, Endocrine, UV Filter, Source

Octocrylene

What it is

A UV filter used to stabilise other sunscreen ingredients.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Octocrylene can degrade into benzophenone, a compound linked to hormone disruption concerns. The older the product, the higher the potential benzophenone content.
It persists in the environment and may be ingested by marine life, contributing to long-term ecosystem impacts and pollution.

SunSafe® Tags
Persistence, Endocrine, UV Filter, Source

Homosalate

What it is

A chemical UV filter used in many SPF formulations.

Why it’s on The Watch List

  • Detected as a systemic UV filter (absorbed into the body in studies)
  • Shows endocrine activity signals in laboratory research, prompting ongoing scientific review
  • Often used at higher concentrations to achieve SPF targets, increasing total exposure potential
  • Included in current regulatory reassessment discussions in multiple regions
  • Frequently appears in daily-use sunscreen products, increasing repeated exposure relevance


SunSafe® Tags

Endocrine, UV Filter, endocrine disrupter, chemical sunscreen, hybrid sunscreen, homosalate, Source

Avobenzone

What it is

A UVA-filtering chemical sunscreen ingredient.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Photo-unstable on its own and often requires stabilisers, increasing formulation complexity and environmental load.


SunSafe® Tags
UV Filter, Persistence Source

 

Bemotrizinol

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine / BEMT / Tinosorb S

What it is

Bemotrizinol is a highly photostable, broad-spectrum UV filter now permitted by the US FDA at concentrations up to 6%.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

The FDA’s 2026 environmental review found that permitting this use was not expected to have a significant environmental impact. We’re continuing to watch the independent, long-term and coral-specific environmental evidence as it develops—not labelling harm where it has not been established.


SunSafe® Tags

UV Filter, Environmental Review, Formulation Complexity, Emerging Filter, Source, Source, Source

Octisalate

What it is

A UVB-absorbing chemical sunscreen filter often used to boost SPF performance and improve water resistance.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

Frequently used alongside multiple UV filters in hybrid and chemical systems. Included due to cumulative formulation load, repeated exposure considerations and broader transparency discussions around multi-filter sunscreen systems.


SunSafe® Tags
UV Filter, Hybrid Sunscreen, Formulation Complexity, Source


PBSA (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid / Ensulizole)

What it is

A water-soluble UVB filter commonly used in lighter daily SPF formulations.

Why it’s on The Watch List

PBSA has been detected in surface waters, and laboratory evidence indicates a low rate of biodegradation. We’re watching its environmental fate, transformation products and chronic aquatic exposure. This is an evidence-gap position—not a claim of established ecosystem harm.


SunSafe® Tags
UV Filter, Water Soluble, Environmental Review, Source, Source



4-MBC (4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor / Enzacamene)

What it is

A UVB sunscreen filter historically used in some international formulations.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Included due to international regulatory discussions and endocrine activity research signals.


SunSafe® Tags
Endocrine, Regulatory Review, UV Filter, Source



Padimate O

What it is

A UVB chemical sunscreen ingredient related to PABA-derived chemistry.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Included due to historical safety discussions and reduced modern use compared with newer filters.


SunSafe® Tags
UV Filter, Legacy Filter, Ingredient Watch, Source





Human Risks

  • Benzophenone-1 (and related compounds)
  • Retinyl Palmitate


Benzophenone-1 (and related compounds)

What it is

Benzophenone-1 is a UV stabiliser and major metabolite and transformation product of oxybenzone.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Experimental and review evidence indicates estrogenic activity, and BP-1 has been documented in environmental matrices. We’re watching the endocrine evidence, environmental occurrence and incomplete fate data as they develop.


SunSafe® Tags
#Endocrine, #Persistence, Source, Source, Source


Retinyl Palmitate 

What is it?

Retinyl Palmitate is a vitamin A derivative—not a UV filter.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

In a National Toxicology Program study, creams containing Retinyl Palmitate increased the onset and multiplicity of skin lesions and squamous neoplasms in UV-exposed hairless mice compared with control cream. This animal study does not establish equivalent human risk.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

However, because Retinyl Palmitate adds no UV-filtering benefit, The Sunscreen List™ treats the uncertainty as avoidable in sunscreen.

SunSafe® tags
Human Risk, UV Reactivity, Non-SPF Ingredient,
Source 






Environmental Risks

  • VP/Eicosene Copolymer
  • Acrylates Copolymer
  • Silica Dimethyl Silylate
  • PFAS (Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances)


VP/Eicosene Copolymer

What it is

VP/Eicosene Copolymer is a synthetic film former used to improve water resistance and product performance.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Ingredient-specific environmental evidence remains limited, so claims that it does not readily biodegrade or that it causes microplastic-type pollution are not established. It remains on The Watch List™ as an environmental data gap while evidence and synthetic-polymer definitions continue to develop.


SunSafe® Tags
Persistence chemical, Source, Source


Acrylates Copolymer

What it is

Acrylates Copolymer describes a broad family of synthetic polymers used for film-forming and texture.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Some acrylic polymers biodegrade slowly, but the available review found generally no-to-low aquatic toxicity and reached a preliminary conclusion of low environmental concern. Important exposure and ecotoxicity data gaps remain. Whether a polymer meets a microplastic definition depends on its physical form and use—not its name alone.


SunSafe® Tags
Persistence chemical, Source, Source


Silica Dimethyl Silylate

What it is

Silica Dimethyl Silylate is a surface-modified amorphous silica used for texture, viscosity and a matte finish.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Available evidence does not support treating it as established environmental pollution. The evidence-based watch point is potential respiratory exposure where particles may be inhaled, particularly in powders or sprays. Risk depends on particle size and final-product delivery.


SunSafe® Tags
#Persistence, beauty silicone, glide, Source, Source


PFAS (Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances)

What it is

PFAS are a large class of synthetic chemicals. Certain PFAS are intentionally used in cosmetics, while others may be present as impurities or breakdown products.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Many break down very slowly and can accumulate in people, animals and the environment. Exposure to certain PFAS has been associated with increased cholesterol, reduced fertility, developmental effects, hormone interference and an increased risk of some cancers. Some PFAS can cross the placenta and enter umbilical cord blood. Evidence and toxicity vary by compound.

SunSafe® tags

PFAs, hormone disruption, infertility, Source, Source, Source, Source, Source


More Reports:

The Ingredient List™  | Case Studies

   



Keep Reading:


Environmental presence + persistence

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9652235/

Toxicological + formulation effects (marine systems)

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0269749122014269

Human exposure + biological interaction

https://www.mdpi.com/2305-6304/13/2/110

Regulatory + absorption studies context

https://www.tga.gov.au/news/media-releases

PFAs


Retinyl Palmitate

• National Toxicology Program — Photocarcinogenesis Study of Retinyl Palmitate

• FDA correspondence regarding sunscreen vitamin A studies

What we watch:

UV filters • persistence chemicals • reef-risk claims • endocrine activity signals • formulation additives


The Watch List™ explores ingredients, claims and formulation topics commonly discussed in sunscreen conversations. Inclusion does not automatically indicate risk, and context, concentration, formulation and regulation all matter.


For the ingredients you do want in your sunscreen
The Ingredient List™


Chemical Filters

Organic / chemical UV filters currently included within The Watch List™

Hybrid UV Filter Systems

Category:

Active filters, often Chemical, sometimes with Zinc Oxide 
Combination of mineral + organic UV filters in one formula.

What it is

Common in beauty and family brands, not always transparent in labeling - 'reef safe' claims are not proven or regulated.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

  • Multiple UV filters used together can appear in “mineral” or “reef-safe” products
  • Increases formulation complexity and exposure pathways
  • Includes filters under global review (e.g. oxybenzone, homosalate)
  • Newly approved and under tested chemicals such as bemotrizinol



    Watch for these ingredients:

  • oxybenzone • homosalate • octocrylene • avobenzone • bemotrizinol • octisalate



Chemical Filters

  • Oxybenzone
  • Octinoxate
  • Octocrylene
  • Homosalate
  • Avobenzone
  • Bemotrizinol
  • Octisalate
  • PBSA (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid / Ensulizole)
  • 4-MBC (4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor / Enzacamene)
  • Padimate O

Oxybenzone

What it is

A chemical UV filter used to absorb UV rays.

Why it’s on The Watch List


Linked to coral bleaching and endocrine disruption concerns. Widely restricted in reef-sensitive regions.

SunSafe® Tags
Reef, Endocrine, UV Filter Source

Octinoxate

What it is

A chemical UV filter that protects against UVB rays.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Associated with coral reef damage and potential hormone disruption.

SunSafe® Tags
Reef, Endocrine, UV Filter, Source

Octocrylene

What it is

A UV filter used to stabilise other sunscreen ingredients.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Octocrylene can degrade into benzophenone, a compound linked to hormone disruption concerns. The older the product, the higher the potential benzophenone content.
It persists in the environment and may be ingested by marine life, contributing to long-term ecosystem impacts and pollution.

SunSafe® Tags
Persistence, Endocrine, UV Filter, Source

Homosalate

What it is

A chemical UV filter used in many SPF formulations.

Why it’s on The Watch List

  • Detected as a systemic UV filter (absorbed into the body in studies)
  • Shows endocrine activity signals in laboratory research, prompting ongoing scientific review
  • Often used at higher concentrations to achieve SPF targets, increasing total exposure potential
  • Included in current regulatory reassessment discussions in multiple regions
  • Frequently appears in daily-use sunscreen products, increasing repeated exposure relevance


SunSafe® Tags

Endocrine, UV Filter, endocrine disrupter, chemical sunscreen, hybrid sunscreen, homosalate, Source

Avobenzone

What it is

A UVA-filtering chemical sunscreen ingredient.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Photo-unstable on its own and often requires stabilisers, increasing formulation complexity and environmental load.


SunSafe® Tags
UV Filter, Persistence Source

 

Bemotrizinol

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine / BEMT / Tinosorb S

What it is

Bemotrizinol is a highly photostable, broad-spectrum UV filter now permitted by the US FDA at concentrations up to 6%.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

The FDA’s 2026 environmental review found that permitting this use was not expected to have a significant environmental impact. We’re continuing to watch the independent, long-term and coral-specific environmental evidence as it develops—not labelling harm where it has not been established.


SunSafe® Tags

UV Filter, Environmental Review, Formulation Complexity, Emerging Filter, Source, Source, Source

Octisalate

What it is

A UVB-absorbing chemical sunscreen filter often used to boost SPF performance and improve water resistance.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

Frequently used alongside multiple UV filters in hybrid and chemical systems. Included due to cumulative formulation load, repeated exposure considerations and broader transparency discussions around multi-filter sunscreen systems.


SunSafe® Tags
UV Filter, Hybrid Sunscreen, Formulation Complexity, Source


PBSA

What it is

A water-soluble UVB filter commonly used in lighter daily SPF formulations.

Why it’s on The Watch List

PBSA has been detected in surface waters, and laboratory evidence indicates a low rate of biodegradation. We’re watching its environmental fate, transformation products and chronic aquatic exposure. This is an evidence-gap position—not a claim of established ecosystem harm.


SunSafe® Tags
UV Filter, Water Soluble, Environmental Review, Source, Source



4-MBC

What it is

A UVB sunscreen filter historically used in some international formulations.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Included due to international regulatory discussions and endocrine activity research signals.


SunSafe® Tags
Endocrine, Regulatory Review, UV Filter, Source



Padimate O

What it is

A UVB chemical sunscreen ingredient related to PABA-derived chemistry.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Included due to historical safety discussions and reduced modern use compared with newer filters.


SunSafe® Tags
UV Filter, Legacy Filter, Ingredient Watch, Source





Human Risks

  • Benzophenone-1 (and related compounds)
  • Retinyl Palmitate


Benzophenone-1 (and related compounds)

What it is

Benzophenone-1 is a UV stabiliser and major metabolite and transformation product of oxybenzone.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Experimental and review evidence indicates estrogenic activity, and BP-1 has been documented in environmental matrices. We’re watching the endocrine evidence, environmental occurrence and incomplete fate data as they develop.


SunSafe® Tags
#Endocrine, #Persistence, Source, Source, Source


Retinyl Palmitate 

What is it?

Retinyl Palmitate is a vitamin A derivative—not a UV filter.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

In a National Toxicology Program study, creams containing Retinyl Palmitate increased the onset and multiplicity of skin lesions and squamous neoplasms in UV-exposed hairless mice compared with control cream. This animal study does not establish equivalent human risk.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

However, because Retinyl Palmitate adds no UV-filtering benefit, The Sunscreen List™ treats the uncertainty as avoidable in sunscreen.

SunSafe® tags
Human Risk, UV Reactivity, Non-SPF Ingredient,
Source 






Environmental Risks

  • VP/Eicosene Copolymer
  • Acrylates Copolymer
  • Silica Dimethyl Silylate
  • PFAS (Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances)


VP/Eicosene Copolymer

What it is

VP/Eicosene Copolymer is a synthetic film former used to improve water resistance and product performance.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Ingredient-specific environmental evidence remains limited, so claims that it does not readily biodegrade or that it causes microplastic-type pollution are not established. It remains on The Watch List™ as an environmental data gap while evidence and synthetic-polymer definitions continue to develop.


SunSafe® Tags
Persistence chemical, Source, Source


Acrylates Copolymer

What it is

Acrylates Copolymer describes a broad family of synthetic polymers used for film-forming and texture.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Some acrylic polymers biodegrade slowly, but the available review found generally no-to-low aquatic toxicity and reached a preliminary conclusion of low environmental concern. Important exposure and ecotoxicity data gaps remain. Whether a polymer meets a microplastic definition depends on its physical form and use—not its name alone.


SunSafe® Tags
Persistence chemical, Source, Source


Silica Dimethyl Silylate

What it is

Silica Dimethyl Silylate is a surface-modified amorphous silica used for texture, viscosity and a matte finish.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Available evidence does not support treating it as established environmental pollution. The evidence-based watch point is potential respiratory exposure where particles may be inhaled, particularly in powders or sprays. Risk depends on particle size and final-product delivery.


SunSafe® Tags
#Persistence, beauty silicone, glide, Source, Source


PFAS (Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances)

What it is

PFAS are a large class of synthetic chemicals. Certain PFAS are intentionally used in cosmetics, while others may be present as impurities or breakdown products.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Many break down very slowly and can accumulate in people, animals and the environment. Exposure to certain PFAS has been associated with increased cholesterol, reduced fertility, developmental effects, hormone interference and an increased risk of some cancers. Some PFAS can cross the placenta and enter umbilical cord blood. Evidence and toxicity vary by compound.

SunSafe® tags

PFAs, hormone disruption, infertility, Source, Source, Source, Source, Source


More Reports:

The Ingredient List™  | Case Studies

   



Keep Reading:


Environmental presence + persistence

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9652235/

Toxicological + formulation effects (marine systems)

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0269749122014269

Human exposure + biological interaction

https://www.mdpi.com/2305-6304/13/2/110

Regulatory + absorption studies context

https://www.tga.gov.au/news/media-releases

PFAs


Retinyl Palmitate

• National Toxicology Program — Photocarcinogenesis Study of Retinyl Palmitate

• FDA correspondence regarding sunscreen vitamin A studies

What we watch:

UV filters • persistence chemicals • reef-risk claims • endocrine activity signals • formulation additives


The Watch List™ explores ingredients, claims and formulation topics commonly discussed in sunscreen conversations. Inclusion does not automatically indicate risk, and context, concentration, formulation and regulation all matter.


For the ingredients you do want in your sunscreen
The Ingredient List™


Chemical Filters

Organic / chemical UV filters currently included within The Watch List™

Chemical Filters 

Human Risks 

Environmental Risks 


Hybrid UV Filter Systems

Category:

Active filters, often Chemical, sometimes with Zinc Oxide 
Combination of mineral + organic UV filters in one formula.

What it is

Common in beauty and family brands, not always transparent in labeling - 'reef safe' claims are not proven or regulated.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

  • Multiple UV filters used together can appear in “mineral” or “reef-safe” products
  • Increases formulation complexity and exposure pathways
  • Includes filters under global review (e.g. oxybenzone, homosalate)
  • Newly approved and under tested chemicals such as bemotrizinol



    Watch for these ingredients:

  • oxybenzone • homosalate • octocrylene • avobenzone • bemotrizinol • octisalate



Chemical Filters

  • Oxybenzone
  • Octinoxate
  • Octocrylene
  • Homosalate
  • Avobenzone
  • Bemotrizinol
  • Octisalate
  • PBSA (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid / Ensulizole)
  • 4-MBC (4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor / Enzacamene)
  • Padimate O

Oxybenzone

What it is

A chemical UV filter used to absorb UV rays.

Why it’s on The Watch List


Linked to coral bleaching and endocrine disruption concerns. Widely restricted in reef-sensitive regions.

SunSafe® Tags
Reef, Endocrine, UV Filter Source

Octinoxate

What it is

A chemical UV filter that protects against UVB rays.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Associated with coral reef damage and potential hormone disruption.

SunSafe® Tags
Reef, Endocrine, UV Filter, Source

Octocrylene

What it is

A UV filter used to stabilise other sunscreen ingredients.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Octocrylene can degrade into benzophenone, a compound linked to hormone disruption concerns. The older the product, the higher the potential benzophenone content.
It persists in the environment and may be ingested by marine life, contributing to long-term ecosystem impacts and pollution.

SunSafe® Tags
Persistence, Endocrine, UV Filter, Source

Homosalate

What it is

A chemical UV filter used in many SPF formulations.

Why it’s on The Watch List

  • Detected as a systemic UV filter (absorbed into the body in studies)
  • Shows endocrine activity signals in laboratory research, prompting ongoing scientific review
  • Often used at higher concentrations to achieve SPF targets, increasing total exposure potential
  • Included in current regulatory reassessment discussions in multiple regions
  • Frequently appears in daily-use sunscreen products, increasing repeated exposure relevance


SunSafe® Tags

Endocrine, UV Filter, endocrine disrupter, chemical sunscreen, hybrid sunscreen, homosalate, Source

Avobenzone

What it is

A UVA-filtering chemical sunscreen ingredient.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Photo-unstable on its own and often requires stabilisers, increasing formulation complexity and environmental load.


SunSafe® Tags
UV Filter, Persistence Source

 

Bemotrizinol

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine / BEMT / Tinosorb S

What it is

Bemotrizinol is a highly photostable, broad-spectrum UV filter now permitted by the US FDA at concentrations up to 6%.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

The FDA’s 2026 environmental review found that permitting this use was not expected to have a significant environmental impact. We’re continuing to watch the independent, long-term and coral-specific environmental evidence as it develops—not labelling harm where it has not been established.


SunSafe® Tags

UV Filter, Environmental Review, Formulation Complexity, Emerging Filter, Source, Source, Source

Octisalate

What it is

A UVB-absorbing chemical sunscreen filter often used to boost SPF performance and improve water resistance.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

Frequently used alongside multiple UV filters in hybrid and chemical systems. Included due to cumulative formulation load, repeated exposure considerations and broader transparency discussions around multi-filter sunscreen systems.


SunSafe® Tags
UV Filter, Hybrid Sunscreen, Formulation Complexity, Source


PBSA (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid / Ensulizole)

What it is

A water-soluble UVB filter commonly used in lighter daily SPF formulations.

Why it’s on The Watch List

PBSA has been detected in surface waters, and laboratory evidence indicates a low rate of biodegradation. We’re watching its environmental fate, transformation products and chronic aquatic exposure. This is an evidence-gap position—not a claim of established ecosystem harm.


SunSafe® Tags
UV Filter, Water Soluble, Environmental Review, Source, Source



4-MBC (4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor / Enzacamene)

What it is

A UVB sunscreen filter historically used in some international formulations.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Included due to international regulatory discussions and endocrine activity research signals.


SunSafe® Tags
Endocrine, Regulatory Review, UV Filter, Source



Padimate O

What it is

A UVB chemical sunscreen ingredient related to PABA-derived chemistry.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Included due to historical safety discussions and reduced modern use compared with newer filters.


SunSafe® Tags
UV Filter, Legacy Filter, Ingredient Watch, Source





Human Risks

  • Benzophenone-1 (and related compounds)
  • Retinyl Palmitate


Benzophenone-1 (and related compounds)

What it is

Benzophenone-1 is a UV stabiliser and major metabolite and transformation product of oxybenzone.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Experimental and review evidence indicates estrogenic activity, and BP-1 has been documented in environmental matrices. We’re watching the endocrine evidence, environmental occurrence and incomplete fate data as they develop.


SunSafe® Tags
#Endocrine, #Persistence, Source, Source, Source


Retinyl Palmitate 

What is it?

Retinyl Palmitate is a vitamin A derivative—not a UV filter.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

In a National Toxicology Program study, creams containing Retinyl Palmitate increased the onset and multiplicity of skin lesions and squamous neoplasms in UV-exposed hairless mice compared with control cream. This animal study does not establish equivalent human risk.

Why it’s on The Watch List™

However, because Retinyl Palmitate adds no UV-filtering benefit, The Sunscreen List™ treats the uncertainty as avoidable in sunscreen.

SunSafe® tags
Human Risk, UV Reactivity, Non-SPF Ingredient,
Source 






Environmental Risks

  • VP/Eicosene Copolymer
  • Acrylates Copolymer
  • Silica Dimethyl Silylate
  • PFAS (Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances)


VP/Eicosene Copolymer

What it is

VP/Eicosene Copolymer is a synthetic film former used to improve water resistance and product performance.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Ingredient-specific environmental evidence remains limited, so claims that it does not readily biodegrade or that it causes microplastic-type pollution are not established. It remains on The Watch List™ as an environmental data gap while evidence and synthetic-polymer definitions continue to develop.


SunSafe® Tags
Persistence chemical, Source, Source


Acrylates Copolymer

What it is

Acrylates Copolymer describes a broad family of synthetic polymers used for film-forming and texture.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Some acrylic polymers biodegrade slowly, but the available review found generally no-to-low aquatic toxicity and reached a preliminary conclusion of low environmental concern. Important exposure and ecotoxicity data gaps remain. Whether a polymer meets a microplastic definition depends on its physical form and use—not its name alone.


SunSafe® Tags
Persistence chemical, Source, Source


Silica Dimethyl Silylate

What it is

Silica Dimethyl Silylate is a surface-modified amorphous silica used for texture, viscosity and a matte finish.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Available evidence does not support treating it as established environmental pollution. The evidence-based watch point is potential respiratory exposure where particles may be inhaled, particularly in powders or sprays. Risk depends on particle size and final-product delivery.


SunSafe® Tags
#Persistence, beauty silicone, glide, Source, Source


PFAS (Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances)

What it is

PFAS are a large class of synthetic chemicals. Certain PFAS are intentionally used in cosmetics, while others may be present as impurities or breakdown products.

Why it’s on The Watch List

Many break down very slowly and can accumulate in people, animals and the environment. Exposure to certain PFAS has been associated with increased cholesterol, reduced fertility, developmental effects, hormone interference and an increased risk of some cancers. Some PFAS can cross the placenta and enter umbilical cord blood. Evidence and toxicity vary by compound.

SunSafe® tags

PFAs, hormone disruption, infertility, Source, Source, Source, Source, Source


More Reports:

The Ingredient List™  | Case Studies

   



Keep Reading:


Environmental presence + persistence

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9652235/

Toxicological + formulation effects (marine systems)

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0269749122014269

Human exposure + biological interaction

https://www.mdpi.com/2305-6304/13/2/110

Regulatory + absorption studies context

https://www.tga.gov.au/news/media-releases

PFAs


Retinyl Palmitate

• National Toxicology Program — Photocarcinogenesis Study of Retinyl Palmitate

• FDA correspondence regarding sunscreen vitamin A studies

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References & Further Reading

Regulation • Testing • Marine Science • Environmental Research • Related Reports

Sources updated as evidence evolves.